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March 5, 2013

French (all butter) Croissants



I think any laminated dough, be it croissants, puff pastry, danish, is one of baking´s great accomplishments when made at home.
It is a project. This is no last minute idea, especially if you take the traditional way of mixing and folding. I make a danish dough in the food processor and it´s a dream, but there´s no escaping the laminating if you want the puffy look. And you absolutely want the puffy look when it comes to croissants.


Today, our Tuesdays with Dorie group is finally tackling croissants. All butter croissants, by contributing baker Esther McManus. Our host today is Amanda of Girl+Food=Love, and you´ll find the recipe there.
There is a video about the whole process, which you might want to watch.

The recipe is very traditional, though there are some that add an egg. Not this one, just flour, sugar, milk, salt and of course, a lot of butter.


I have made croissants dozens and dozens of times. Back when I was living my other life, that included a big kitchen and a lot of stepkids, making croissants was fairly normal.
When you´re a baking freak like I am, having a lot of teenage mouths willing to devour anything you make is like a dream come true. So I would bake a ridiculous amount of whatever I wanted since it always found a willing tester. Or many.


This is, in theory, a very simple yeast dough that is kneaded and, after resting overnight, a block of somewhat softened butter is added. And the process of folding and resting begins.

As with many masterpieces of the baking world, it needs some focus and organization. Have enough counter space ready, a good rolling pin, a knife to cut the triangles, enough time to let the dough mark the step and not the other way around, read the recipe thoroughly before starting.


It takes time, because the dough has to rest for at least one hour between each envelope-style folding. The reason for this is the yeast. The gluten activates when you handle the dough, and if it´s not allowed to rest it becomes impossible to work with. Just like any yeast dough.
And it´s important to mark the dough by making an indentation with your thumb betwen folds so not to loose track of them. You don´t want to find yourself in the middle of the kitchen, trying to figure out if you are going to make the final turn or if you already made it. So you mark the dough. Just press your thumb when the fold is done. After the second turn, press your thumb twice. And so on.

Since croissants need three foldings, the last one a four layer turn, it will take a few hours to complete. And then it has to rest again, otherwise you won´t be able to roll it thin enough to cut the triangles that will become the croissants.


To laminate is to alternate layers of dough and butter, by folding the dough onto itself, and thus creating a final dough that looks like a stack of sheets. They will puff up dramatically in the oven due to that layering effect and the water that evaporates as steam during baking. 
So the layers have to be distinctive, otherwise the effect will be lost and you will have a mess consisting of flour and butter. If you didn´t manage to make puff or croissant pastry rise at some time, you know exactly what I mean. A pool of butter and uncooked dough.



In this recipe, the butter is mixed with a few tbs of flour before being shaped into a square. The book suggests using the mixer, but I never do that, because I don´t want to wash a bowl and beaters full of greasy butter.
I simply put the butter in pieces over a piece of plastic (I use freezer sheets), sprinkle the flour, add another sheet on top and pound with the rolling pin. You pile it up again and repeat. It takes three or four times for the flour to mix. But the mess is minimal as you can see in the pictures.


Ready to go into the fridge before adding to the dough

I have to say that the mixing, folding and shaping was pretty uneventful, since I was familiar with it. The dough had a bit of resistance, even after resting for hours, something that happened to me on occasion before. So they didn´t roll as thin as I wanted. 

But the lamination came out really good, as you can see in the pictures. The shape not so much. And here I have to say that after 20 minutes in the oven, the croissants had puffed and were turning a gorgeous golden, but they were also dripping in butter. Dripping, as in a lot of melted butter in the tray. 
So much that I transferred the parchment paper with the almost made croissants to another tray, so they could dry out a bit more while they finished baking.


You can clearly see that they kind of flattened and couldn´t hold their shape so much. I used a top-brand  butter, so there was no reason for this to happen. And though I never used this recipe before, it doesn´t appear to have a different ratio of butter than others. One of those mysteries.
When you cut the triangles, be sure to use a sharp kitchen knife. The cuts should be precise and neat, no sawing motions, or you´ll disturb the layers and it will affect the puffiness.

I brushed them with simple syrup (sugar covered with water and boiled two minutes) right out of the oven, because I never glaze them before baking. I just don´t like it. But the syrup gives them a nice shine, and add a very slight sweetness. 


The flavor was amazing, really buttery (what else!) and crunchy, the way a good laminated dough can be.
I like making small croissants for several reasons, one of them being that they never get soggy and have a lot of golden, flaky crunchiness. In this case I made different sizes to see how they baked. By far the best ones where the smaller croissants. A perfect bite.


I´m feeeling the croissant bug start to crawl inside my mind, so I see a lot of it this year. I will of course, make my tried and true recipe again, from Nancy Silverton, and maybe give this one another try. I have to get that dripping butter business settled once and for all.
And I still have half of this recipe in the freezer. We have to tackle variations on this dough, like pain au chocolat and almond croissants. I´m so looking forward to that.





46 comments:

  1. They look darn perfect to me! I picked up some new tips from this recipe, but my Martha Stewart version actually rose better...I'll have to check out NS's recipe.

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  2. I learned how to make croissants in a short Bread and Viennoiserie course I took last year. They are a pain **** to make! But, oh my God, where they good! I't something I will definitely try to make again. Your's look mouth watering. Love them!

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    1. Yo tome clases con Olivier (el de la tele) hace como 12 años, pero nada como practicar! Adonde hiciste un curso?

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    2. Jaja no sé si escribirte en inglés o español. En el IAG lo hice. Se llama Panadería & Viennoiserie: son 8 clases, 1 vez por semana. A mi me encantó. Aprendimos a hacer de todo: pancitos saborizados, de campo, baguette, de centeno. Pero también focaccia (la que subí al blog), medialunas de grasa (un verdadero quilombo) y manteca, masa de pizza, de facturas. Es lo más de lo más. Si podés hacelo. Lo único, si, es que te dan todo preparado, como me dijo Juli, de Filosofía de Sabor (ella estudió la carrera de pastelería en el IAG). Así que cuando llegás a tu casa, a veces te sentís medio desorientada. Pero de veras lo recomiendo. Hice el de técnicas básicas de cocina hace 2 años y también me encantó. Los profes son super piolas, y lo más importante es que te enseñan técnica. Te lo re vendí, no? Jajaj
      Besote

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  3. The whole process seemed intimidating from a time perspective til I got going and realized how much resting time is involved for the dough. I would like to make croissants one more time before warm weather arrives and managing the butter becomes an untenable prospect.

    Your croissants look fantastic. I will have to check out Nancy Silverton's recipe. Which book is it in?

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    1. Pastries from the La Brea Bakery, one of my favorite books of all time. They are worth the time!

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  4. These croissants look sinful Paula. I saw them over at Liz's too. You are an incredible baker my friend! Now how do I wish I had some for b'fast this am.:)

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  5. Paula - I bow to you. You are amazing to pull of such beautiful croissants. For me, this will be a retirement project! I really love your attitude - take the time, let the recipe guide you... I learn so much from you each time I read your posts... ~ David

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  6. Wow - just gorgeous. You are one talented baker my friend!

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  7. I am stunned by the beauty and perfection of these croissants, Paula! I have never made a laminated croissant dough but now you have inspired me! Stunning!

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  8. So gorgeous, I totally had a fail :( Couldnt make it this time but will try it again. You have inspired me .. how wonderful! Great job.

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  9. Your croissants look absolutely perfect to me! It is a reassuring to hear that an 'experienced' croissant baker had some challenges with melting butter while cooking - that was a near disaster for me. Thanks for the tip about Nancy Silverton's recipe!

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  10. They are beautiful. I was thinking there was quite a bit of melted butter hanging around too but it had been a while since I made them last so I wasn't sure. I love the idea of brushing them with simple syrup and I'm gonna do that next time!

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  11. oh my goodness Paula! These croissants look amazing! I can't tell that they are flat. . and the shape, that's what I love about baked goods. They come out differently. No 2 are exactly alike. kind of beautiful like that? and you are seriously making me drool with "pain au chocolat and almond croissants". . oh my! I will have to tackle croissants this year. . these and french macarons, I am intimidated by. But hey, gotta give it a try, right? These look absolutely delicious!

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  12. Well worth the wait. I love croissants.

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  13. I had an issue with the dripping butter as well. Was not sure where I had gone wrong.
    Your croissants do look pretty darned good though.

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  14. Stunning Croissants! Yes they are an all day project but one feels quite an accomplished baker when the task is a complete. There may be nothing finer than a warm croissant!

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  15. Great pics! Your croissants look wonderful and flaky...just like they should be. Makes me want to try the recipe again to see if I can get them to turn out this good.

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  16. These are so gorgeous. I love croissants and can't wait to make them. I say these are way better than those in the bakery!

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  17. Thanks for the helpful tips on how to make the butter block! I also love your idea to brush the croissants with simple syrup. The croissants are looking great!

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  18. Well, Paula, you know, of course, that you have beaked the most perfect looking Croissants ever! I cannot believe how they look like pure buttery perfect bliss! When I attempted mine, I was actually thinking of you and knew that you would ace this recipe and you did! Respect! I just wanted to let you know that the only reason that I added chocoalte to mine or made these funny looking pains au chocolat is because Esther MacManus added chocolate to hers in the video not because I was plunging ahead in the book.
    Have a lovely Wednesday!

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  19. Since I was away for the last month, and on the road for the past few days, I never got these done. However, this is one recipe that I have been waiting to try…so today I will begin my dough. Hopefully they come out as lovely as yours! They look magnificent, Paula!!

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  20. I like how you prepped the butter! Your croissants look lovely...

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  21. Paula - these are beautiful.

    I found the dough didn't roll out quite as easily as I wanted, but I did discover that thwacking the dough with my rolling pin did help me push it out to the desired length. (And I am learning to really appreciate the investment I made in the Matfer nylon rolling pin - I no longer see it as a luxury, but a vital kitchen tool)

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  22. Love these croisssntas Paula look delicious:)
    I bookmarked!
    Me encantaria hacerlos luego.Paula me encantan!

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  23. Paula, these are amazing! I love how you took the time to explain the process so well. I have never made croissants, but have made a croissant type filled Italian pastry...so I imagine it's somewhat similar. I would love to try. I so wish I could have one with my afternoon coffee right now, as I watch the snow fall here in Northern Virginia!

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  24. Wow is the only word necessary for this post, Paula. Making croissants is truly a looooong labour of love, lol. Sounds like I'd have to mark off an entire weekend to make these. I love all your helpful hints (especially the one about incorporating the flour into the butter) and in the end, you have absolutely perfect looking, delicious, flaky, layered croissants. You say they turned out flat but in my eyes, they're perfect!

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  25. paula, you make your own croissants? i am truly in awe of you. thanks for explaining the process so clearly - you make it seem doable.
    i can taste the buttery flakiness from here :-)

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  26. Great job documenting the process. How different is Nancy S's recipe?

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  27. What beautiful croissants, Paula! I have never tackled such a recipe but hope to one day. Though they may not have come out exactly as you wanted, they look great to me.

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  28. Your croissants look just about perfect, Paula. Great job. Beautiful photos as always.

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  29. Beautiful. Interesting glaze - it does give them a nice shine.

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  30. OMG, Paula - these are amazing! I've never attempted Croissants before. I can only imagine how great they taste!

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  31. Wow- I am so impressed! These are beautiful and on my list of things to try to make. The pile of butter is enough to make me swoon and to see your perfect dough is just wonderful. Simply fantastic!

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  32. Your croissants look amazing. Yum! Can't wait to try these.

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  33. Oh my goodness...look at your lovely croissants. Love all the beautiful buttery layers.

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  34. I bet your stepkids loved your baking and gosh, what will I do tonight because I want a slice of your bundt and a couple of these gorgeous croissants!

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  35. Love love the flaky layers, they look sooo good, especially with the glaze. And you make it all sound so ... cool and calm! Your experience really shows here, and I wish I was there for one of the little "perfect bite" croissants!

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  36. These look so good! I must confess, I have always been intimidated by making croissants. My tween loves them and I usually buy a package for her at Trader Joe's. I bet they are so much better fresher and homemade.

    I will give them a try! Thanks for the post.

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  37. Wow! These are beautiful! Making croissants is on my list of things I want to make at home this year.

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  38. Your croissants are beauties! Wish I had one right now :).

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  39. Beautiful! I love the sheen you get from the sugar syrup. These weere tasty.

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  40. Paula, What an amazing and well-written Post topped only by your delicious looking croissants. I had to put Julia on the backburner while I sold my house and then got moved but I will be returning soon. Unlike you, I have never made croissants before so I was very interested in your thorough explanation. Lots of work, huh? Lots of calories, also. Wow, you are some baker.

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